Rather than any real-life celebrity, Zuhair Murad’s muse for Fall was a fictional snow queen. Yes, he’s a Frozen fan. But adapting a Disney film to an adult clientele is not without its challenges, even for a designer inextricably linked to fairy-tale gowns. Using one of his signature techniques—intricate embroideries on illusion tulle—Murad developed dimensional icicle geometries and crystals formed from (what else?) crystals. The shattered motif, in particular, brought more edge to his standby cocktail dresses and jumpsuits, especially when applied with considerations of negative and positive space. Rendered as a print, it proved quite wearable, but then so did the comparatively structured bell-shaped black dress in glossy satin overlaid with tulle de soie.
There is no denying the workmanship in Murad’s dresses; what’s more, the icy theme kept him focused, both in terms of palette and pattern. His clients remain regulars expressly because he doesn’t pivot much. Still, it’s time for Murad to advance beyond his comfort zone, if only because both sides stand to benefit. Today, you could see one small sign of innovation in the appliqués of padded leather. They raised the bar on relief ornamentation by being equally well crafted and cool.
